Sherpa Walking Holidays: England Great Glen Way

For those who have less time on their hands you can do a short Mount Elbrus tour and still only take a week off of work! The ascent is not a technical climb and no advanced mountaineering experience is required. It is a long trek up a snowfield requiring fitness, perseverance and the need to be familiar with the use of crampons and ice-axes. We aim to ascend the highest of Elbrus’ twin-peaks, the West Peak which at 5642m is Europe's highest summit.

The Caucasus forms a chain of high, alpine mountains separating the Republic of Georgia from that of Russia to the north. Just north of the main chain, in Russia, lies Europe’s highest summit - the twin-peaked Mount Elbrus. The main chain itself contains many mountains over 5000m and tens of summits higher than Mont Blanc. In the valleys clear streams tumbling down from the mountain sides mix with the rushing melt waters from the glaciers at the head of the valleys, passing through dramatic scenery, alpine meadows and beautiful forests.

The Baksan Valley leads, over about 40 miles, from the northern foothills to the main chain itself. This is the most important valley in the Caucasus, partly because of the mineral wealth located near Tyrnyauz and partly on account of Elbrus at its head and the hundreds of magnificent mountains, which comprise it’s watershed. Almost at the end of the Baksan Valley lies Terskol - the climbing centre of the Elbrus area. This tiny town lies at the foot of Mount Elbrus. It boasts about half a dozen hotels and two ski lift systems. It is the best developed mountain sport centre in the 1000km. length of the Caucasus - a range that could swallow up the Alps!

Our trip will start with an evening visit to Red Square in Moscow before our flight to Mineralnye Vody next day, a spa town on the plains north of the Caucasus. From here a 4 hour bus journey takes us to our base hotel in the Baksan Valley. For the ascent of Elbrus itself we will use a cable car system to take us to the Mir Station, a height of about 3500m. If the chairlift is working we will take that to 3800m. From the top of the chairlift you may like to use the snowcat to get higher. We will stay either at The Garabashi huts (3750m) or at a high camp. A lot will depend on prevailing conditions. Now that work has started to rebuild the Priut, we may be to stay there.

Though gentle-angled, the ascent of Elbrus requires the use of crampons and an ice axe. Very warm wind and waterproof clothing is essential on Elbrus and a good 4 season sleeping bag for the high camps. In the Caucasus, the trek leader and guide is a well-qualified, very experienced mountaineer and leader, a fluent English speaker with expert knowledge of the Caucasus. We employ extra guides on Elbrus. They will have ropes and be in radio contact with Terskol base. A Western trek representative accompanies the group if there are more than 10 in the party.

Although no advanced mountaineering experience is required, you should be familiar with the basic use of crampons and ice axes before the trip. Personal kit must be carried including your sleeping bag and mat. A limited number of porters can be hired at an extra charge to carry personal equipment where necessary. This is a tough trip. Some of the days are very demanding physically. We generally trek on steep, rugged ground, on glaciers and glacial deposits. We recommend some long walks before your trip and that your boots are well worn-in, but not worn out!

It must be remembered that Elbrus is an extremely serious mountain in spite of its technical ease. The guide’s decision to turn back should be respected at all times.

Grade D+ This trip is only suitable for the partly acclimatised or those who acclimatise well. If you are uncertain how well you perform at altitude we strongly recommend our 15 day trip which provides an adequate period of acclimatisation for the ascent.

The following itinerary is intended as a working guide only and it is subject to variation as a result of local conditions, weather and governmental restrictions. We reserve the right to alter (lengthen or shorten) the trek at any time if necessary. Airline schedules are subject to change, both international and domestic, and it may be necessary to vary our itinerary to adapt to these changes. Time: GMT +3.

q Day 1: Fly British Airways from London, Heathrow to Moscow. You will be met and taken on a short city tour to see the Red Square before having supper. Night in hotel.

q Day 2: Mid-morning flight to Mineralnye Vody, on the plains north of the Caucasus. From here we have a 4 hour drive by private bus to the hotel in the Baksan Valley, near Elbrus.

q Day 3: Acclimatisation walk from hotel to Cheget Karabashi summit, 3404m - a magnificent viewpoint over Elbrus.

q Day 4: Ascend with the cable car system to the Garabashiv Huts.*Possible acclimatisation walk to Pastukhova Rocks or on the lower slopes.

q Day 5: Acclimatisation walk to Pastukhova Rocks. Great views of the Caucaus Mountains in good weather.

q Day 6: Generally speaking this is the day for the ascent. For the attempt
we begin in the small hours of the morning for the ascent to the highest of Elbrus’ twin peaks - the West Summit. You carry your daypack with the day’s requirements. We return to spend the night in Garabashi or camp. However a successful ascent of Elbrus is very much weather dependent so we have several alternative plans.

If the forecast is bad for Day 6 so that an ascent is not possible then we have Day 7 to make the attempt.

q Day 7: Last day for an attempt on the summit. Otherwise return to hotel in the Baksan Valley.

q Day 8: If the weather was good on the summit day and the group arrives back down early then we will organise some valley walks.

q Day 9: Drive back to Mineralnye Vody, fly back to Moscow, and transfer to international airport for return flight to London.

Camping on the mountain: If the weather is appropriate we will camp on a lava ridge at 4100m. This makes it easier and shorter for the ascent as well as for acclimatisation. If the weather is bad but the huts are full we will also have to camp. If Elbrus is climbed on day 6 you will descend to the hotel and some valley walks will be organised. It is our experience that once an attempt has been made and been successful at least to near the Saddle then group members do not have the reserves to make another attempt so please heed the advice of the guide as to the best day for an ascent to be made. This will be based upon the local weather conditions and on how the fitness of the group is perceived. However the guide will discuss the situation with the group.

If you have read books about the Elbrus ascent you will probably have read about the famous Pruit hut where everyone used to stay on the mountain. In the Summer of 1998. Someone overdid the camp pasta and then, overdid the Priut hut as well! There were a team of climbers in the Pruit, their cooker went out of control, so someone picked up a pan of water to throw over it to dowse the flames... only it wasn't exactly water, it was petrol. The structure has burnt down, but in 2001 they have made a start at rebuilding it. This should not hamper our tour, but it will mean that if we cannot get into the Pruit Hut in summer 2004 it will mean starting lower down at the Garabashi Lodge or having a high camp near to the remains of the hut. The time spent either camping or at the Garabashi Lodge will be determined by such factors as the weather and by the progress of the group as well. Hopefully the chairlift will be working to take us from the Mir Station to approx 3800m. From here a snowcat (tracked vehicle) is often available to take you higher for a small charge. The charge depends on the number of people (max 10).

In Moscow a good quality hotel is used with en-suite shower or bath and WC. However the hotels are not up to Western standards especially in terms of service. The hotel in the Baksan Valley is very simple but pleasantly situated and friendly; rooms are generally double, facilities being shared between two rooms. On Elbrus accommodation we stay in a hut or a high camp. You will require your own sleeping bag and mat.

Food on trek is prepared by our own cooks from fresh foods supplemented by supplies brought in from Mineralne Vody and St Petersburg. As the variety of foods available in Baksan Valley is rather limited we recommend that you bring with you a small selection of “goodies” - chocolates, nuts etc. which you are particularly fond of. These will be useful especially at times when the altitude might reduce your appetite for main meals or when you need energy for the final summit push. We try to cater for vegetarians but we cannot provide the same standard as expected in the West. We suggest that vegetarians take their own protein supplement if this is likely to cause a problem.

Mountain weather is variable. In the valleys it is possible for daytime temperatures to rise over 25C. Higher up it will be cooler, even in strong sunlight. At night, especially at the high campsites, it can be very cold and you are likely to experience frosts. Although this is generally the drier side of the Caucasus, rain, summer storms and even snowfall on the passes could be encountered at any time. On Elbrus the weather can turn Arctic.

Very warm and wind-proof clothes are necessary for the ascent including both inner and outer waterproof gloves/mittens, duvet jacket, fleece and thermals. Double boots would be useful on Elbrus but would not be comfortable for the other walks unless you are already used to wearing them. Stiff, mountain boots suitable for winter mountaineering in Scotland are probably the best compromise. You will also need an ice axe and crampons, which fit your boots well; ski sticks or walking poles are optional extras. We also like you to take a lightweight harness with one Karibiner; you might not need this but it can be useful in bad weather, on the different ice and snow conditions we meet on mountain slopes and glaciers, as well as during the various descent sections. If you are already a hiker or backpacker you will probably have much of the clothing and equipment required. A good three - four season sleeping bag is adequate. We recommend that you consider carefully the items you need to take on the camping sections and try to keep to a 60 litre rucksack. A detailed equipment list will be sent with confirmation of booking. We would also recommend a 0.5 or 1 litre stainless steel Thermos Flask very useful, as it is a good idea to have some hot drinks on the mountain days.

We use BA Scheduled return flights from London Heathrow to Moscow and Scheduled Aeroflot flights from Moscow to Mineralnye Vody and back to Moscow

Departures: 25^th June, 09^th & 23rd July, 6t^h& 27^th of August. Please ask for details for your own private group.

An emergency medical kit accompanies the trek and the Russian staff includes qualified medical personnel. We nevertheless recommend that you carry your own personal first aid kit. A suggested list of contents as well as more general health information is included in your pre-departure information. No special inoculations are required for entry into Russia but we recommend that your tetanus inoculations are up to date and that you consult your doctor for other cover such as typhoid & Hepatitus.

A visa is required and will be applied for on a group basis cost £45. For this we require your passport and application form five weeks before departure for about 3 weeks; if this is a problem we will have to discuss the situation with you. Full details of the procedures involved will be included in the pre-departure booklet; you can contact us for details as well.

There are still very few books on travel in post-Soviet Russia and the republics. The following publications titles may be of use.

'Classic Climbs in the Caucasus', published by Diadem, describes a selection of ascents including that of Elbrus and of Gumachi. Illustrated.

'Caucasus Central from Elbrus to Kazbek', map/guide of the main Caucasus Range. £8.95.

'Mount Elbrus Region: map and guidebook to the Baksan Valley region including descriptions of walks and the ascent of Elbrus'. £12.95. Both above map/guides are available from EWP or from West Col Productions.

'USSR Travel Survival Kit', published by Lonely Planet, good value. This has a good section on the Caucasus including the Baksan and Elbrus regions. £13.95.

The Travel Bookshop provides a mail order service. Mention Sherpa. 13 Blenheim Cr., London, W11 2EE. Tel. 0207 229 5260