Sherpa Walking Holidays: England Great Glen Way

Outline Itinerary

The following itinerary is intended as a working guide only and is subject to variation as a result of weather, local conditions and group progress.

We reserve the right to alter (lengthen or shorten) any trek at any time if necessary.

Local time: GMT+1.

£1 Sterling = 16 Dirhams approx.

N.B Occasionally your trek leader may wish to change your free day in Marrakech to the beginning of the trek. This depends on weather and local logistics, and is done entirely for your benefit.

q Day 1: Depart Heathrow for the flight to Marrakech. Transfer to the Hotel Foucauld

q Day 2: We leave the hotel after an early breakfast and drive into the Atlas Mountains, stopping en route at Azilal for lunch (not included). Mid-afternoon we arrive at the charming village of Idoukaln near Agouti. Here we meet our Berber host and spend the night at his family home, a Moroccan Gite d'etape with its own lounges and a shady court yard where one can have a drink under the apricot trees .At this village we find ourselves in the midst of high, fortress-like houses built into the rocky hillsides. The flat lands of the valley are cultivated with corn, wheat, barley, potatoes, tomatoes and various fruit and nut trees. Sheep, goats, cows, donkeys, horses and mules graze everywhere.

q Day 3: The next ten days will be spent walking through the spectacular gorges and peaks of the Massif du Mgoun, one of the most scenic ranges in the High Atlas Mountains, using the trails that the Berbers have used themselves for centuries. Mules are loaded with our gear and will be driven by friendly Berbers.

From Idoukaln we take the high dirt road over the mountains, as the gorges here are impassable. We then follow the Gougoult Valley to Abachkou c.18000m, where you will find the last telephone until we return. Here we camp for the night.

q Day 4: We continue up the valley, passing the village of Tissint to a col, the Tizi-n’Tighist (2,399m). Here in the heat of the day is a very good spot for having lunch. Soon after continuing we stumble across some excellent prehistoric rock- carvings within an enclosure; thought to date from 8000 years ago. They have literally been etched into the rock using heat... there are also some fake ones as well. Can you spot the difference? The pictures show hunting scenes, men on horseback with spears and some tribal symbols from that time, after the ice age when there were many more wild animals around. We descend to enter a broad, cultivated valley and climb steeply up to our campsite high on a terrace, opposite the village of Tarbat-n’Tirsal.

q Day 5: We head beneath the imposing bulk of Jbel Rhat to a col (2,850m) then contour above crags with amazing views of rock strata and over 4 false summits before dropping steeply down to Imazayn. We camp on a small terrace above and opposite the villages. 2250m

q Day 6: A longish day as we ascend initially to a col (2,550m) before following a rocky spur down to a small summer hamlet. From here, we skirt a deep gorge to Imi-n’Tizgui, our lunch spot. Continuing down the valley to the large village of Tissili, we enter the Tissili Gorge, which leads eventually into the main Tessaout river valley from whence we turn easterly and camp near to the small village of Ayt Ali -n-Ittou.

q Day 7: Another long day's walk (Although mainly flat) along the main Tessaout valley through willows and walnut groves through the beautiful village of Ichbakene, where houses are perched high above the river on a rocky promontory. Lunch around here; you may want to take a paddle in the river, although you will probably end up having a waterfight with the local kids. We then follow a dusty trail along the valley side as it meanders. The valley is flanked by mountainsides, which in turn become desert-like. Soon we head off through irrigated pastures to our campsite on a rocky spur, surrounded by great mountain views at Azib - n - Ihhis.

q Day 8: a 3-hour hike passing through the large villages of Amezri and Tasgaiwalt. We arrive at the head of the Tessaout valley by midday, where we make camp at around 2370m and rest over lunch. There are several river crossings to be made throughout the morning and some of the rocks can be a little slippery so take care. Afternoon is free to explore the surrounding area or bathe in the fresh mountain stream (and we mean fresh!). There may be the opportunity in the afternoon to follow the path further up the valley and explore the upper reaches of the Tessaout gorge. There is a spectacular waterfall and an unbearably cold plunge pool, but the backdrop of red mountains is spectacular.

q Day 9: Early morning ascent steeply from the river up to the Rougoult Pass (Tizi). There are spectacular views back to where we have been walking for the last couple of days. The climb is sustained, but it is very well graded. Eventually we get to the high broad plateau beneath the Mgoun Massif proper, stopping en route for lunch amongst the volcanic jumble of rocks. The Afternoon is spent traversing the high valley, where nomadic tribesmen camp with their flocks. Late afternoon we drop down slightly to a relic glacial plain on the Tarkeddit plateau 2900m to arrive at our spectacular campsite surrounded by jagged peaks.

q Day 10: Today is a long day, especially for those who wish to climb Mgoun. An Alpine Start (or rather a slightly later Morroccan start) is made to ascend to the col of Tizi-n’Oumsoud, a challenging ascent on scree leads to the main ridge. This provides a spectacular, but technically easy approach to the main summit (3960 m we beg to differ with the map height of 4068m!). We return part of the way along this ridge before descending directly to our camp; lunch is normally had near the summit giving a good example of Haute cuisine. Dress warmly because of the cold wind that can mask the affects of the very strong sunlight.

q Day 11: This morning after a steep ascent to another col, the Tizi -n-Tarkeddit, we can see in front of us far below the rich green pastures of the valley of Ait Bougemez and the village of Agouti, from whence we came nearly ten days ago. From the pass we make a gentle descent through a little valley and camp near a tributary of the river Arous at 2194m approx. you may want to explore a little way into the Arous gorge, where from one point one can look up between the cliffs of the gorge entrance and see the summit of Mgoun towering above.

q Day 12: An easy day following the meandering Arous river valley through many small Berber settlements, which completes our circuit and brings us back to the Ait Bougemez valley by lunch time. Afternoon can be spent wandering around the villages nearby; there are some dinosaur footprints in a nearby village, which have been left behind in metamorphosed mud. We spend the night at Idoukaln and bid farewell to our Berber friends; this will probably be the last time that you see the muleteers.

q Day 13: Return drive to Marrakech via Azilal where lunch is included, and then on to the Hotel Foucauld, to arrive late afternoon. The busy main square of Marrakech, the Djemaa-El-Fna is well worth a visit. Especially at dusk when we can particularly recommend the view to the Koutoubia from the terraces of the surrounding bars and restaurants. The last group evening meal is normally included tonight at the Hotel Foucauld (If not it will be arranged for tomorrow night). There is a set menu, but you can pay an extra supplement (30 D approx) and eat anything from the buffet, going back as many times as you like! During the hot summer months the meal is often had on the roof of the hotel (Drinks are not included. The waiters can normally get alcohol (off the premises) if you give them money to do so. The hotel does have a licence to serve it, but normally does not stock very much. The Moroccan beer tastes very much like alcohol free - chemical lager, which it probably is after all! Moroccan wine is variable, but nothing normally to write home about. It is probably best to stick to soft drinks and "Berber Whiskey," - Mint Tea!)

q Day 14: Morning tour of the souks (markets) of Marrakech for those last minute presents. Particularly good are the products that are made of wood and leather, but you will find plenty of interesting items including dates and walnuts. The leader will be able to help you find items that you may want, but we leave the haggling up to you... it is all, too stressful! In the afternoon we recommend that you go to the Saadian tombs and maybe if you still have clothes to look smart (ish) in, attempt to get into the famous Mamoumia Hotel for a drink...at a price! This was the hotel that Sir Winston Churchill often stayed in, and is still, by World standards, excellent.

Lunch and dinner today is at your expense. You may like to eat in the Djemaa El Fna, the central square in the city, which at night takes on vibrance and personality that is unique in the World, (just watch your pockets though). Quite a few Westerners now eat actually in the square, where there are many barbecues lighting up (and smoking up) the place. Here you can eat for around 20 dirhams (including a soft drink) fish and chips, kebabs, and chicken. The advantage of the place is that you can actually see how your food is being cooked and get them to redo it if necessary.

q Day 15: Transfer to the airport (15 minutes) and Fly Marrakech to London, normally an early morning flight. (Note that most the duty free shops sell items in French Francs only, although if you do have a few Dirhams left the airport cafes will serve you drinks for them).

Equipment & Clothing

In addition to a good pair of broken in (but not breaking down) walking boots, a 3 season sleeping bag, a fleece, sunglasses a hat and a couple of water bottles (with water purification) are essential. The sun can be excessively strong, and cotton long sleeved shirts and Sunbloc are very important. A detailed list of recommended clothing and equipment is included in our pre-departure booklet, which is sent with confirmation of your reservation.

Food

All Food is included once on trek. In Marrakech you stay at the hotel on a Bed and Breakfast basis, although on your return a group dinner is included. As is one of the two lunches you have at Azilal.

The food that you will eat is very healthy on trek, including Couscous, Tagine, olives nuts and fruit. Please decide as soon as possible once you arrive on trek whether you are going to be a vegetarian / vegan etc. This is not a problem for our Berber cook crew, as apart from the fish (Tuna and Sardine) often served at lunch time with vegetable salad; there is not normally a lot of meat and when meat is available separate dishes such as vegetarian Tagine, can always be prepared. Many people bring their own treats and food supplements if they have special dietary requirements. It is very difficult or impossible to get a lot of common western items actually once on trek, but things are improving.

Average lunch or dinner costs are about 50-100 Dirhams without drinks. *

Soft drinks cost between 5 Dirhams and about 10 Dirhams for a Coke. Freshly squeezed orange juice is also highly recommended 2. 5 D - 7D. Berber tea varies between 2 - 9 D.

*Alcoholic beverages are normally impossible to obtain out of the big towns and even then are not particularly good by Western standards. We really recommend making use of your duty free allowance to obtain your favourite tipple. Remember that if you belong to an E.C. country, then when you fly to Morocco, you are entitled to duty free shopping.

Tipping

Rather like in Nepal (if you have been) the Berbers expect a tip for good service. We do stress this is voluntary, but more and more they see it as part of their income. On the last night of the trek your leader will quietly encourage you to make some kind of presentation; any monies or material items will be gratefully received and shared between them.